Rabbit

Rabbits may be bought as mild, plump, tender farmed rabbit or as gamier, tougher wild varieties. It is best to buy both varieties when they are not too young, when they are tasteless, or too old, when they become dry and tough.

Rabbits are paunched (or drawn) as soon as they have been killed and may be eaten immediately. However, they develop a better flavour if they are allowed to hang for 2-3 days in a cold, well ventilated area where the air can flow freely. Large rabbits will also taste better if they are marinated in white wine, olive oil, garlic and herbs.

Choose a rabbit that is compact and plump, rather than one that is long and rangy. You should also avoid buying frozen, skinned rabbits, as they tend to be dry and fibrous.

Rabbit responds well to cooking in liquid or in moist heat. When roasted, it should be basted in olive oil and covered with foil to retain as much moisture as possible. It is also excellent when stewed in wine with bay leaves, carrots and onions, or made into traditional rabbit pie, flavoured with salt pork or bacon, grated lemon zest and nutmeg.