Wild Duck

There are many different varieties of wild duck; the largest and most common is the mallard, a plump bird that will feed two or three people. Although the widgeon will only feed one or two, it is considered superior to the mallard in flavour. Other varieties include the tender and ornamental teal, the Nantais, the blackduck and the pintail.

The duck is preferable to the drake across all the species, as it produces a tender, more succulent meat. The drake usually needs to be marinated in order to make it less tough.

The majority of wild duck species live on a diet of aquatic plants, which can make their flesh taste distinctly fishy. This flavour can be mellowed by rubbing the bird inside and out with half a lemon dipped in salt or by placing a raw onion inside the bird for an hour or two before cooking. Alternatively, simply spiking the gravy with lemon juice and Tabasco or cayenne can work to counteract the fishy taste. It is also important to remove the two small nodules by the tail as they can give the flesh a musky taste.

As wild ducks are leaner than domestic ducks, they must be well barded and roasted fairly fast on a rack to keep them as moist as possible. They should be served juicy and slightly pink with game chips, fried breadcrumbs and a sharp salad of orange, celery and watercress. Braised wild duck is excellent when served with red cabbage.