Lobster

Known as homard (France), astice (Italy), bogavante (Spain).

Lobsters are probably the most prized of all shellfish; their creamy-pink flesh, firm yet delicate texture and rich flavour makes them a special, if somewhat expensive, culinary treat.

The finest lobsters are those that are harvested from cold waters, such as off the Atlantic coasts of Ireland, Scotland, Brittany, Maine and Nova Scotia. The female lobster has a more delicate flavour than the male, along with a broader tail and delicious coral (roe), which may be used to make lobster sauce. The male has firmer flesh and meatier claws.

Lobsters may be bought all year round, but are at their best during the summer. A 450 g (1 lb) lobster will feed one person; bearing in mind that small lobsters are usually more tender than larger ones, you may need to buy several. Although large lobsters are less tender, they are excellent for salads and sauces.

Lobster is best purchased live but can also be bought already cooked, cleaned and shelled. Choose a lobster that seems heavy for its weight and avoid those that have lost one of their valuable meatier claws in a fight. Live lobsters should have dark blue or green shells, whilst cooked lobsters should be bright red. To check that a pre-cooked lobster was cooked when alive, pull its tail to straighten it out - when you let it go, it should spring back into a tight curl. Never buy a dead, uncooked lobster - the flesh tends to spoil very quickly.

Live lobsters are best cooked by simply dropping them into a rapidly boiling pan of salted water and cooking for 15 minutes for lobsters up to 675 g (1 1/2 lb) and 5 minutes extra for every 450 g (1 lb). They may also be steamed, or halved and grilled and served hot or cold with melted butter and a little lemon juice or a mayonnaise. The shells may be used as a base for lobster bisque or sauce.